Fish Aquarium Tank

I have one gold fish in my aquarium. What kind of fish can live with a gold fish? What kind of fish doesn't eat their tail?

get another goldfish to keep your fish company
do not get koi (get too big) or algae eaters or plecos )will maim and suck out goldfish eyes)

I bought a new fish tank, 2 days ago. The pet store personel told me i should buy some vitamin drops, and some drops to put in the water, because of the chlorine. The Water gets foggy after a day, and then the fish dies. 2 fishes died already.
Anyone have any suggestions, on what i can do so my other fish dont die?

Add a bottle of aqua-safe dechlorinator (this will remove the harmful chemicals) to the water and follow the instructions exactly. Your tank should be ready for some new fish in about seven days. Make sure that before you add the fish you put the bag in the water to let the water temp acclimate for 15 mins.(this will prevent your fish from going into shock). Do you have a heater for your tank. Heaters are a must for tropical fish. They keep the temperature balanced.

It sounds like you put your fish in the tank too early, you sould always allow at least a week to let the water "age" before you add your fish. The cloudiness you are experiencing is normal. This is a good sign that the healthy bacteria the fish need is growing in the water. All you can do for them now is to wait.

I wish you and your new aquatic friends the best and happy fishkeeping.

Shopping for lights for your aquarium can be one of the fun parts of getting everything set up just so. The fish don’t need lights, unless they’re kept in a room that’s dark all the time, but you want to be able to see them, and show them off to your friends, don’t you? Finding the right light can really unify your tank, make your plants and tank furniture look their best, and of course, show off the true beauty of your fish. For simplicity, we’ll just talk about fish-only tanks here – planted tanks have their own lighting necessities.

Lights for aquariums, like for every other purpose, come in two main varieties (with a couple of rarer and more expensive variants).

Incandescent lights work like your standard light bulb. It costs less to buy them up front, but it takes more electricity to run them over time, and you’ll also have to replace them more often. In addition, they heat up your tank, which may require adjustments to your pH balance and will definitely promote the growth of algae. So, as you’ve probably guessed, I don’t use incandescent lights for my aquarium.

What I use, and recommend to you, is fluorescent lights. The bulbs and fixtures cost a little more than incandescents, but they are a lot cooler so they don’t warm up your tank as much, and they make much better use of electricity, so they don’t add to your electric bill as much. Fluorescent bulbs also don’t need to be replaced as often; maybe once every year to a year and a half, when the light starts to get dim.

Here’s a useful tip I got from my brother: spend a little more for a decent fixture that uses “electronic ballast” – it is inexpensive non-electronic ballast that causes the annoying “fish tank buzz” that most cheap fluorescent fixtures develop over time! It’s worth the money if all you want to hear is the gentle bubbling of your pumps and filters.

Now for the fun part – fluorescent bulbs come in a wide variety of colors. Plain old white can be pretty harsh, and can make your tank look “washed out”, so personally I tend to favor tinted bulbs. It may take some experimenting to find which colors show off your favorite fish to best effect, but in general warm colors like yellow or pink will make the tank look more vivid than cool colors like blue, green, or violet.

Don’t forget to buy a timer to turn the lights off automatically at night. You should also be turning the lights off manually whenever you’re not enjoying the tank – the more often the lights are on, the more they will promote the growth of algae in your tank.

It’s tempting, when you’re just starting out in the aquarium-keeping hobby, to keep things small. It seems logical that a goldfish bowl or a small tank will be easier to maintain than one of those wall-sized monsters, but in fact it’s just the opposite.

The bigger the tank, the easier it is to care for. A larger volume of water helps minimize the effect of temperature changes, pH swings, and the biological toxins that come from decaying plant and fish wastes. With toxins more widely dispersed in the water, your filters have more time to do their job, while your fish stay healthier. All of this means that beginning aquarium hobbyists don’t have so much to fear from common early mistakes.

Also remember that small fish are generally more active than bigger fish, and are much happier with more room to swim around in, so don’t get a small tank just because you like small fish!

In my opinion, the best size to get you started is a standard 40 or 55 gallon rectangular tank. These are easy to find, have lots of standard accessories, are relatively inexpensive, and they’re easy to take care of. It doesn’t take too long to change the water or do other standard maintenance, all parts of the tank are easy to reach, and you’re less likely to have problems with algae growth than in a smaller, narrower tank.

Do yourself a few favors when looking at tanks to buy. Start with glass, because acrylic has its own tricky issues to master. Check the glass or packaging for a safety symbol, certifying the strength of the silicone caulking used to hold the panes of glass together. Also be sure to get a snug-fitting cover that’s easy to clean – you’ll need that to keep both feisty fish and evaporating water in the tank, and it’s inevitably going to get filmed or crusty over time.

Buy a stand that’s sufficient to support your tank’s weight – remember that a 40 gallon tank can weigh up to five hundred pounds when it’s full of water and gravel! Choose the location of your tank carefully, to make sure the floor is level and strong and, that direct sunlight doesn’t fall on the tank during certain parts of day (this will throw your temperature maintenance off).

Set up the stand, and do anything you need to in order to make sure it’s absolutely level – anything out of kilter will put pressure on your tank’s glass or joints, and they WILL give eventually. Not a pretty picture!

Speaking of which, most modern fish tanks are never going to leak, break, or fall, but accidents do happen, and it wouldn’t hurt to add a rider on your homeowner’s or renter’s insurance to cover potential water damage to your carpet or floorboards.

I am no fish expert, and neither is he, so I need a little help. I am going to purchase a new tank, probably 8 -12 gallons, and would like to know the best (colorful, low maintenance, affordable, non-aggressive) types of fish that can live together. Any other useful information, like preferred water temperature or other equipment that I need to buy concerning a specific fish, would be highly appreciated. Also, an estimate of the cost per fish would be great.

This is a surprise (he's brought up getting a fish tank quite a few times in the past year or so) so I can't really ask him his opinion without him getting suspicious. Thanks so much!

Here's a really good website that you can go to, to find a type of fish you think would fit. It also tells you the price per fish. And when you click on a fish that you like, it will tell you where it came from and what kind of water it can live in. like for example, if you were to pick the Demasoni Cichlid, which is a very pretty blue with black striped fish. In the yellow box next to the picture of the fish it will have a chart, to see what other fish it is compatible to live with. It also tells you how big the fish will grow when an adult. The only thing is, on that website you can have the fish shipped to your house. If you don't want to do that you can find your local fish store, after you have an idea of what kind of fish you want to buy. The website is LiveAquaria.com

It can be one of the more frustrating things about adding a new fish to your tank. You treat your new baby with care, ensure that it has the right temperature and pH and food and everything else, give it a few days to adapt – and STILL it remains hidden in the back of the tank, behind the rocks, where no one can appreciate your fine new addition.

All fish get a little nervous about new surroundings, and most aren’t very happy about the shocks and indignities of travel, so it’s normal for a new guy to go into hiding for a day or two as it gets used to its new home. However, if it’s still being shy after a few days, that tells you there’s something else wrong. Until you figure it out and fix it, your friend isn’t going to come out.

The most frequent problem is when your new fish is of a breed that normally travels in schools. Very powerful instincts tell this type of fish that he’s not safe if he’s alone, or in a group that is too small, and even long familiarity with a tank that’s predator-free isn’t going to overcome that instinct. With a bigger school, they’ll all feel safe and spend a lot more time in the open. If you do your homework before buying, you’ll know which breeds you need to buy in groups of four or five or more.

Your next step may seem a little counter-intuitive: add more hiding places to your tank. A nervous fish can be made calmer by providing a safe place he can go. Since even non-territorial fish may each want to have a place of their own to run to when evil threatening kids tap on the glass, the more fish you have, the more nooks and crannies you should provide. More hiding places = more security = more time spent out in the open.

Just decorating the tank in general will make your fish feel less uncomfortable. Prey animals in a nearly empty tank are easily stressed because they feel exposed and vulnerable, which can compromise their immune system and make it harder for them to resist disease and heal from injury. Adding plenty of rock and plant cover, or even neon-pink bubbling treasure chests, will ease the stress, which can help immensely.

Fish that are comfortable in your tank are more likely to display healthy color and natural behavior, and they’re going to spend more time out of hiding and be more lively and entertaining to watch.

I am wondering if i can buy tropical fish from a different aqaurian shop, i have bought all of my fish from 1 fish aqaurian store they are small tropical fish ( guppies, mollies, platys, swordtails, gouramis,) i am wondering if i can today get some more small tropical fish ( peaceful) from a different aqaurian store. ?

So can i buy tropical fishes from 2 different tropical aqurians?

Will the fish be more alert to deseases?

Are there any percautions?

yes that is no problem. I live in Edinburgh (u.k) and I'm lucky to have alot of good quality aquarium shops that i can buy fish from knowing i can buy without them dying on me.

Inspect the tanks before buying, if fish are dead or look ill in the tank then dont buy them.

As long as you dont over stock the tank and if you do make sure you have a good filter and keep on top of weekly water changes and vac the gravel.

You should only add 2 or 3 fish at 1 time so the others dont get stressed out as then they can get diseases. Leave fish to settle in for 2 weeks before you add anymore fish

Here’s a very quick summary of symptoms and information about the most common diseases that can affect our gilled friends – there’s lots more information available online and in books:

• Red or bleeding gills

A sign of incurable ammonia poisoning, usually caused by a new tank that doesn’t have a nitrogen cycle going yet, or an old one that’s lost its beneficial bacteria. There’s not much you can do for these fish, unfortunately; educate yourself about biological filtration and try again.

• Spots or streaks on the body which appear red or orange
• Fungus-like growths, or a white or gray film on the body.
• Dropsy (bloating)

Evidence of various bacterial disorders. Salt baths, or antibiotics such as tetracycline, penicillin and naladixic acid can be used to treat affected fish in a separate hospital tank. Remember that the antibiotics will kill your good bacteria too – don’t add them to your main tank water!

• Tiny black specks on the body

A sign of “Black Spot” or diplopstomiasis, an infestation of parasite larva. Medications are readily available at any fish store.

• White or gray film on the eyes

Cataracts happen when fungus grows on the eyes – it happens most frequently when your water is high in ammonia or nitrates. Correct water chemistry and treat with an aquarium fungicide.

• Bulging “pop” eyes

Corneybacteriosis usually happens when poor water quality is caused by overcrowding. Remove some fish to a separate tank, correct water chemistry, and treat sick fish with antibiotics like penicillin and tetracycline.

• Cottony white substance appearing on surface injuries or mouth

Common fungal infection; exacerbated by poor water conditions and/or “tank bullies” which cause injury to other fish. Correct water chemistry and treat with an aquarium fungicide.

• Small white granules or pimples, mostly on the fins

This is the dreaded “Ich”, or Ichthyophthiriasis, an infestation of parasites. It’s difficult to treat because the protozoans can only be destroyed after the pimples break open, and they often mature enough to infect other fish before tank treatment is complete. There are a handful of medications and preventive treatments available in stores; read instructions, use quarantine carefully, and ask for advice from fish store employees and fellow hobbyists about your particular tank situation.

• Black patches on the body and fins, with or without body swelling

This is a myxobacteriosis infection, uncommon but easily medicated. Commonly caused by overcrowding and poor water quality.

• Powdery white speckles on body skin

Velvet, or oodinium, is a parasitic disease similar to Ich, but easier to treat with commercial medications. Often caused by chilling or transportation stress.

• Visible worms, flukes or lice on the body

Simple parasitic infestation. Remove from tank, physically remove visible parasites, and treat with commercial medications. Follow instructions carefully; lack of follow-up treatment may cause re-infestation or fungal or bacterial infections.

I would love to hear any kind of fish, but I would prefer fish that are reasonably clean and easy to take care of like the betta is. My tank (now) has more than enough room for almost any fish.

I already know that male bettas do not go together, and I know that species releated to bettas cannot go together. Also, dont say none, I know they can live with other fish, I have seen it before.

Hi!

Assuming your tank is a min of 5US gallons and is heated with a power filter you can house a small mix of the following:

Cardinal tetras
Platies
Swordtails
Female guppies (NO MALES)
Mollies
Cories
Frogs (NOT AFRICAN HORN)
Bristlenose Plec
Otto's
Clown Loach (They get huge!)
Danios
Snails (Apple only!)
Shrimp

How many you can have and in what combo depends on the tank size and filtration. Join a good forum like SNBA and get more specific advice and tips!

I wanted to talk a little bit about fish that might look tempting in the store, but should probably be avoided by beginning aquarists. All of these fish have their good points too, or the fish stores wouldn’t be stocking them at all, but it’s best to have a little more experience before adding these, or setting up a new tank for them.

If I start with goldfish, you’re going to say “What? Goldfish are difficult? Since when?” Well, they certainly can be if you try to put them in a tropical tank with other fish. First of all, goldfish like colder water than other tropical freshwater fish, and trying to compromise on a temperature will make both sets of fish unhappy. Secondly, goldfish are DIRTY – they add too much ammonia and other wastes to the water for a delicate biological filtration setup to handle, and will require you to do a LOT more tank scrutiny and maintenance if you don’t want a catastrophe on your hands. In short, get them their own tank and you’re good to go.

Mollies are sweethearts, and very social, but they tend to do well in water that’s a little more brackish (that is, salty) than what other tropical fish like. Like the goldfish, they’ll be happier in a tank that’s set up specifically for their needs. Setting up a brackish water tank is a really interesting process for the dedicated hobbyist, but again, not the best first stop for the beginner.

A discus is a beautiful fish, but they can be very expensive, which means that any newbie’s errors you make in water care, maintenance, or overcrowding are going to be very expensive for you too. I’d recommend the inexpensive angelfish instead, which are similar in shape and a little hardier.

Birchirs are fun, but you need to remember that they will eat any smaller fish they can catch up with. Unfortunately, a birchir can grow quite rapidly, and fish that weren’t “smaller” when you introduced him may soon find themselves in danger. These guys are also famous for jumping out of the tank.

The plecostomus is an amiable and hardy bottom feeder, but they also grow quickly, and most will outgrow the standard 40- or 55-gallon tank long before you’re ready to start a larger one. Similarly, Bala Sharks and Hatchet Fish can grow to up to 10-12 inches long before you know it. With any fish it’s important to learn the maximum size they’ll grow to, and the speed of growth, before you lay down your cash.

Like with everything else about aquariums, the key to choosing the right fish is to do all the research you can before adding anything new.